Winter Cauliflower Pasta
your mid-week dinner, sorted
When coming up with an idea for this post, I reflected on how every winter there’s one dish I keep coming back to on a weekly basis. I either make it on a Sunday to have leftovers for lunch, or mid-week when I’ve had enough of the office and need some R&R on the sofa. Preferably with a comforting bowl of pasta on my lap. In 2022, it was a broccoli and anchovy dish; last year, it was butternut squash with miso butter. This year? It’s all about cauliflower. Who would’ve thought! I’ve never particularly liked cauliflower as a child. I remember it being overcooked and slathered with a Polish take on sugared roux (zasmażka), making the whole thing too sweet and too buttery. Back then, I’d cringe at the sight of cauliflower. But add heaps of garlic and Parmigiano, and slow-cook it until it disintegrates into a rich, creamy sauce? I’m sold.
I first cooked this pasta a couple of months ago, just for myself—which is how I approach any new dish I try. That way, if something goes wrong, you can just eat your failure in silence and never tell anyone about the humbling experience you just had. Then, you try again until you’re so happy with it that you start regretting there’s no one there to witness its greatness. At that point, you’re ready to share it with others. Or… don’t follow any of my neuroses and just do whatever you want with this recipe.
There are many cauliflower pasta recipes out there. Some use double cream, some blend the cauliflower, some bake it first. While I’m sure they’re great, I won’t ask you to do any of this. I’ve perfected what I believe is the simplest cauliflower pasta version, using what I already have in my pantry. Which, by the way, doesn’t mean I have a separate pantry room in my tiny flat. It just means using ingredients I already have in my cupboard—like pasta, olive oil, garlic, and chilli flakes—which make up four out of the six main ingredients this pasta calls for. I’d say this pasta is a winter twist on my favourite summer dish—spaghetti alla Nerano (courgette, garlic, and hard cheese)—as it follows the same technique of slowly frying vegetables until they become jammy in texture and sweet in flavour. This recipe is adapted from Carla Lea Music’s version, so watching her video before cooking might help. Arguably, the best thing about this pasta are the toasted breadcrumbs that go on top. I’ve become addicted to them and now add them to almost every pasta I make.
The best version of this pasta was born quite unexpectedly, and because my friend was running late. She was coming over for dinner after work and got stuck in traffic. I, on the other hand, was working from home—which means I started cooking way too early for what’s socially acceptable within the realms of 9-to-5. Over time, the cauliflower disintegrated and became a jammy paste. To avoid burning it, I added some water, turned the heat down, and texted my friend the standard “What’s your ETA?” so I’d know when to put the pasta in. You see, I don’t think you can do much harm to a sauce that’s been slow-cooking longer than expected. If anything, it gets better with time. The same can’t be said about pasta, so if someone’s coming over, make them text you exactly 10 minutes (then wait another 5, just to be safe) before throwing the pasta into a pot of boiling salted water. Or better yet, wait until they get there and only throw the pasta in once everyone’s relaxed with a drink in hand.
Winter Cauliflower Pasta
Ingredients (rough measurements)—serves 2-3
In Poland, we use a phrase “na oko” which translates to “eyeballing.” Trust me, I know how infuriating this is, as every time I call my mum or grandma asking for one of their recipes, this is what I get. I guess the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree…
1 small head of cauliflower (or half if it’s a larger one, about 450 grams)
3-4 large garlic cloves, smashed and cut into pieces
500 grams of spaghetti or bucatini (but any pasta shape will do)
2-3 tablespoons of olive oil
1 tablespoon of butter
1/2 cup of Parmigiano cheese
1 cup of pasta water (set aside)
Salt, pepper (to taste)
Pinch of chilli flakes (to taste)
For the pangrattato (toasted breadcrumbs):
1-2 tablespoons of olive oil (just enough to coat the pan)
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste
About 1 tablespoon of grated Parmigiano cheese to taste
Steps:
Smash, peel, and cut the garlic. Use the back of your knife, pressing firmly on the clove so the skin comes off easily.
Cut the cauliflower into small florets, then roughly chop.
Heat 3 generous tablespoons of olive oil in a medium-sized pot or pan. I’ve been enjoying making sauces like this in pots lately—they’re easier to stir, etc.
Depending on when you’re planning to eat, put a larger pot on the hob and start boiling the water for the pasta. Add a generous heap of table salt. “Salt it like the sea,” as chefs often say. So, that’s what I do.
Add the garlic and sauté over medium heat for a minute.
Add the cauliflower and stir well. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add some chilli flakes, if using.
Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, to encourage the florets to break down under the heat. This should take at least 20 minutes. Add a table spoon of butter to help it caramelise even more (optional)
Meanwhile, make the pangrattato (crispy breadcrumbs). Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small pan on medium heat. Add the panko or breadcrumbs. Season with salt and pepper. Stir after a minute to encourage even browning. Let it cook for another 30 seconds to 1 minute, stirring now and then. Roughly chop a small garlic clove and add it to the pan. Once the breadcrumbs are nicely browned, transfer them to a bowl and grate Parmigiano to taste. Set aside.
Do-some-dishes interlude: If, like me, you don’t have a dishwasher, cleaning as you go is a must.
Grate the Parmigiano in a small bowl (at least ½ cup). Don’t worry—you can always grate it directly over the pasta when the sauce is coming together, but given how few steps there are in this recipe, you’ll spend most of your time pottering around, so you might as well grate it now.
Continue stirring the cauliflower, which should be lightly browned and becoming jammy in texture. If the florets are still hard and haven’t fully disintegrated, pour in some water and break them down with a spoon. You’re looking for a sauce-like consistency. Cook for another 10 minutes.
If you’re waiting for people to arrive, reduce the heat to low and do something else in the meantime. Start the pasta process only when you get the 15-minute ETA.
If you’re eating immediately, now is the time to add the pasta to the boiling salted water. Cook according to the instructions (usually 8-12 minutes, depending on the shape and brand).
Assembly time! Reserve a big cup of pasta water—you probably won’t need it all, but it’s good to have extra just in case. Don’t worry if you forget. Contrary to popular belief, using water is just fine.
Drain and transfer the pasta to the pot with the cauliflower sauce. Add half of the grated Parmigiano and some of the reserved pasta water, stirring continuously over low heat. Continue adding cheese and water until you’re satisfied with the look, consistency, and taste. The outcome should be a silky pasta sauce, with bits of cauliflower still there but mostly dissolved into the sauce. It should taste garlicky, salty, and buttery.
Transfer to a plate or a bowl and cover with the toasted breadcrumbs.
Enjoy! And inevitably, come back for seconds…
Looks delicious, can't wait to try!!