Food Travel Diaries: Palermo and Cefalù, Sicily

An honest rundown of what I ate in Sicily, with a few recommendations

Buongiorno! How are we? I’m feeling good because it’s spring, at last. I will not get tired of saying that, as it is my favourite time of the year—what can I say? I’m a spring baby through and through. I’m actually turning 28 this weekend, eek. I’m not as scared as I was just a few months ago; if anything, I feel like I’m starting a very exciting new chapter in my life. Finding community here on Substack and writing this newsletter really has helped with that. I have more subscribers than my tiny flat could ever handle. I am really grateful for the support I’ve received from family and friends, but also from complete strangers I met “on the internet” who have found my chatter about food interesting and relatable. If you subscribed recently—thank you, I hope you’ll stick around!

This year, I got to cheat the system a little, which I told myself I’d do every winter—I finally travelled somewhere warmer than where I’m based, and that single-handedly cured my SAD. In Sicily, where I went last month, I experienced the weather equivalent of London in May. It was only 22 degrees, but I wore tank tops, my favourite white midi skirt, black linen trousers, the cutest ballerinas, and my trusty Bostons. I finally felt cute, after months of hiding behind two mock-neck jumpers and a brown wool coat I wore on repeat. I’ve always preferred S/S wear, and I’m convinced that anyone can look effortlessly chic and cool wearing linen. So, if just for that, you too should travel somewhere warm in winter—even just to feel cute again. Big boost to my self-esteem, I must say.

If you’re new here, this is the second food travel diary I’m sharing, and it’ll be a bit different to my Rome guide (see below), in that I prioritised holiday-ing over research and being so focused on finding the best spots to eat. I didn’t even book any restaurants, so really, this was always going to be more of a vibe check type of post, in which I’ll just tell you what I saw, ate, and learned about Sicily and its cuisine, as well as give you a few recommendations. Okay? Great. Andiamo!

Both trips taught me that visiting Italy in the low season is the way to go. There are just far fewer people, which makes sightseeing nicer and makes it easier to feel like a local—the energy I want to emulate wherever I go. Like with my Rome trip, I embarked on a journey to discover the flavours of Sicily. I decided to go to Palermo on a whim, mostly motivated by my search for somewhere warm and sunny in March, where I could eat well and maybe there’s a beach nearby. Sicily has always been high on my list of places to visit in Italy, long before White Lotus made it popular.

If I were to describe Palermo in three words, it would be: chaotic, rough, and striking. It was a lot less pristine than Rome, but equally full of colour and contrast. There are strong Arab and African influences that you can see in the architecture and taste in the food. Think: sweet, citrusy, and herby pairings with seafood or meat—and as much colour on your plate as in the mosaics that fill the palaces and chapels.

Tips for a week-long holiday in Palermo

• Don’t go there for a week

I think if you’re going to Sicily, you either want to have a car or give yourself enough days and have a plan for how you’re going to travel around by train. Palermo isn’t a week-long destination, which is why I ended up going to Cefalù and hiking a hill (Mount Pellegrino). I was simply craving nature. Lesson learned for future me: anytime I’m going somewhere for a week, I probably do need an easily accessible body of water to swim in and/or stare at. Side note, I also probably need to stay in an apartment or Airbnb with a kitchenette. While for many, not being able to cook for a week might be the peak holiday experience, for me it’s actually a bit tiresome. Also, going out for dinner every night is expensive, and while I like solo dining as much as the next gal, it stops being fun after the fourth time in a row.

• Rent a car or plan your train travel well

Now that we’ve covered that you simply shouldn’t be in Palermo for a whole week, let me tell you what you could do if you find yourself in that situation like I did. And by that, I mean deliberately choosing it as your destination due to decision paralysis and panic. I don’t have a car—or a driving licence, for that matter—but if you do, I’d encourage you to discover all that Sicily has to offer by renting one. It would be lovely to travel to the other side of the island and see Catania or Mount Etna. I think I’ve had this realisation in nearly every Mediterranean region I’ve ever visited: that maybe, just maybe, it would be a good idea to finally get that driving licence. Maybe I’ll put it on my bucket list of things to do before turning 30. That is—if I ever overcome my anxiety around it (by that I mean both driving and turning 30).

But if you can’t/don’t want to drive, then contrary to popular belief, travelling by train in Sicily is fairly doable. I even met a couple on my trip who had been exploring the island by train, going to each city for one or two nights over the two weeks they were there. That way, they saw Taormina, Syracuse, Etna, Catania, and Palermo. Next time I’m in Sicily—provided I still don’t have that licence—I might just do that.

I travelled by train myself once, from Palermo to Cefalù, where I spent the whole day. It was great. If you’re based in London, it was the equivalent of taking a train to Brighton on a surprisingly hot day and spending it all on the beach. Same vibe (minus all the stag-doers).

• Book a table

This is my own advice that I’ve given on here—and completely failed to follow myself. Lesson learned number three of this post. Maybe it was the fact that the weeks leading up to my trip were slightly chaotic and full, or maybe I just wanted to try and relax a bit and not be my usual Monica Geller self (yes, we share both the name and the type-A-ness). But I didn’t book a single restaurant—and that was a mistake.

I had a Google Maps list as long as my arm, and yet I couldn’t experience some of the spots simply because they were fully booked. This meant that, on a couple of occasions, I had quite meh dinners—and that’s just not what you want. So don’t make my mistake: research well in advance and book a few spots you want to try. Turns out Palermo, even in the low season, gets as busy as London on a weekend.

• Sign up to a workshop/event

Moving on to a less self-critical part of this post, what I did well was research different food-related events and cooking workshops in Palermo. Turns out there were plenty! The only thing I booked, which was probably my way of regaining some semblance of sanity, was a half-day cooking workshop on my second day. I figured, since I was treating this trip as both a holiday and a learning opportunity—and needing to occupy my busy, frantic mind—it would be best to find activities to do there, other than just wandering aimlessly and eating gelato after gelato (don’t worry, I did that too).

I settled on the half-day The Sicilian Pantry cooking workshop, led by Chef Michael Sampson—an Irish guy turned Sicilian chef who moved there twenty years ago. He studied Italian cuisine at Alma (my new dream culinary school) before working in various restaurants, as a private chef, and finally setting up his cookery school. Located in the heart of Palermo’s historical centre, The Sicilian Pantry welcomes people from all around the world nearly every day to share resourceful yet bountiful Sicilian cuisine in a friendly and welcoming way. I couldn’t recommend it enough!

My fellow nine travellers and I met Michael around 10 am, and after quick introductions, we headed to Mercato Capo—one of the four main open-air markets in Palermo. The others being Ballaró, Vucciria, and Borgo Vecchio. Each of the markets has its own unique style, and visiting them is a must for any visitor. Together, we picked up the produce for our workshop, all while Michael told us more about the market, and the vegetables and fruits that were in season in March. Things like artichokes (which were different from the ones I tasted in Rome), fennel, cauliflower, wild asparagus, and blood oranges. It was a great way to experience the market and really understand what Sicilian cooking is all about.

It was also great to do this workshop on my second day in Palermo, as a way to meet people. I met a lovely woman from Canada—we instantly bonded and went for drinks and dinner that evening. Plus, I had a much better idea of what to eat and where, as Michael shared some of his insider knowledge, which you know I value a lot.

---

An honest recap of everything I tasted in Sicily

I tried my best to categorise this broadly into two categories: 1. Street food and mains, which is what I would have for lunch or dinner, and 2. Desserts and drinks, which is self-explanatory and yes, includes gelato and orange wine recommendations.

Street food and mains

• Panelle, Pasta con Carciofi and Involtini di Carne at The Sicilian Pantry

At the cooking workshop, I learned how to make four classic staples of Sicilian cooking. For antipasti, we made panelle—fried chickpea fritters, which had the funniest jelly-like structure before frying. We served them with lemon juice and flaky salt. A staple of Palermo street food. One thing to note is you have to have them fresh, so always check whether they’re being prepared in front of you. Otherwise, they get soggy.

For our primi, we made pasta con carciofi, which involved learning how to properly clean and trim an artichoke—something I’m yet to perfect, but I’m getting closer. Having the chef explain it bit by bit definitely helped. We cooked the artichokes down in olive oil and wine and tossed them with Sicilian busiate (a type of short pasta). It was delicious. An interesting thing I discovered while eating this dish was that cooked artichokes change the taste of anything you’re drinking, making it sweeter. Both wine and water were weirdly sweet. Apparently, that’s a thing and it wasn’t just me—others felt it too, and the chefs at the workshop confirmed this phenomenon.

Lastly, we made involtini di carne—a type of stuffed meat (we used beef), sliced thinly and packed with flavours I would never have thought to pair with meat before. These were: orange zest and juice, currants, salty ragusano cheese (cheddar or provola would also work well), cooked onion, mint, and almonds. You make the filling with these ingredients first, put it in the centre of the beef slice, and roll it like you would a spring roll. But it doesn’t stop there! You then take a skewer stick, add a raw onion slice, place the rolled meat on it, and finish with another onion slice. After that, you roll it in pangrattato (breadcrumbs) and set it aside for baking or grilling. Honestly, this was some of the best meat dish I’ve ever tasted—and such an ingenious recipe.

I also made my first-ever marzipan dessert, but more on this later.

• Caponata di Melanzane and Fussili all’Orata, Ciliegino e Pistacchi at La Scoglio Ubriaco, Cefalù

Considering this was only my second day in Sicily, this day and this lunch were pretty remarkable. I decided to travel to Cefalù right away, mainly because it looked like it would be the warmest day of my entire week there. And if you need to know one thing about me, it's that on any given warm day in a city, I am yearning to be close to water. One of my best friends is moving to Brighton in a couple of months, and though I’m sad to see her go, I can’t wait to visit and hang out on the beach with her come June. But back to Cefalù, which was an absolutely wonderful little seaside town. I spent an entire day there, and after lying on the beach for hours, I took myself for lunch at La Scoglio Ubriaco, which had a great seafront view.

I started with Caponata di Melanzane, which is one of my favourite appetisers—I had it at least three times on this trip. It’s fried/roasted aubergines, cooked in a rich tomato, caper, and olive sauce. It’s sweet and tangy thanks to the addition of sugar and vinegar. Caponata tastes better the next day and is usually served cold with lots of bread to mop up the sauce. For my primi, I really wanted a seafood pasta, but after some careful consideration (i.e. the back-and-forth in my head and asking for help from the waiters—always do that), I ordered a pistachio and sea bream pasta. This pistachio cream and fish combo seemed really important to Cefalùsi, and I figured I could get a regular shrimp and mussel pasta anywhere else. I’m so happy I did, as it was truly "fantastico," as one of the waiters claimed it to be. The plate it was served on was really cute, and it made me purchase a similar-looking one from a little ceramics shop near the restaurant. Right then and there, I decided to start a collection of colourful plates.

Overall, I spent a good two hours for lunch, really living my "dolce far niente" lifestyle here, as the service wasn’t particularly fast, but to be fair, it was Sunday and there were a lot of people. I didn’t complain though, as I met a lovely lady sitting next to me, also dining alone. She was from Milan, and as we were waiting for our starters, sipping our house whites, I learned all about Milanese cooking. I guess Milan has to be the next stop on my Italian food tour. I am afraid, though, that once I go there, I’ll become an even bigger risotto snob.

• Pasta con Le Sarde at Osteria Bellarò

I chose this restaurant in desperation, and it was a bit of a miss. I think it was trying to be a fine dining restaurant, may even be one, but really it was just dull. Very quiet, very poorly lit—just the worst. Luckily, I wasn’t there alone, as I was dining with a new friend I made at the cooking workshop. If I were alone, I probably would have gotten up and left, but we stayed because we were both really hungry and everywhere else was fully booked. However, I did try a local favourite: pasta con le sarde, which is what matters in this story. It was a really interesting pasta, showing once more how Sicilians approach cooking with ingenuity and resourcefulness. I loved the strong flavours of sardines, garlic and fennel, and the finishing touch of breadcrumbs.

Morale of the story: Don’t go to this place, but do try this pasta if you’re in Palermo. Spots to consider instead: Osteria Nonna Dora, which was recommended to us by Chef Michael, or Bisso Bistrot Quattro Canti, which was high on my list of places to try but was sadly closed for renovation when I was there.

• Sfinciuni and pani câ meusa at Antica Focacceria San Francesco

Sfincione (or sfinciuni in Sicilian) is a very common variety of pizza that originated in the province of Palermo. Unlike Neapolitan pizza, it is typically rectangular, with more dough, sauce, and cheese. The one I tasted at the Focacceria had onions and anchovies. It was pretty good and went well with a Peroni. This historical spot has been serving traditional Sicilian dishes and pastries since 1834. The beautiful high-ceiling building during the day feels almost like a cantina, though I read it also gets busy and turns into a restaurant in the evenings. As I was sitting there, marvelling at the interior and chatting with the guy behind the counter (as I was one of the few customers on a quiet Sunday afternoon), he served me something I was scared of trying in Sicily – pani câ meusa.

You’ll typically find two styles of pani câ meusa served in Palermo. Schietto is the purist’s choice. It’s made from slices of spleen and lung that are fried in lard and garnished with a squeeze of lemon. Maritatu takes things up a notch by adding ricotta or caciocavallo cheese to the sandwich. The creamy, salty richness of the cheese complements the bold flavours of the spleen. I tried the second one, and bless him, he served it to me in the smallest version possible, yet I still couldn’t finish it. I tasted it because it would’ve been rude not to, but it was all a bit much for the occasional meat-eater that I am. Even though liver (another famous offal) is actually one of my favourite meats, this one was hard to swallow. But I am really glad I tried it, as this is a staple sandwich enjoyed by all Palermitani.

Another spot to try these two classics: Nni Franco U Vastiddaru and Nino u Ballerino.

• Carciofi alla Villanella and Pasta Fresca con Gamberetti Pomodorini e Salicornia at Al Cancelletto

Please marvel at the fact that this bullet point before editing was “that spot where I had pasta with that weird green thing and shrimps.” But it’s exactly how I remember it. I ordered carciofi alla villanella that was very similar to the alla Romana (braised artichoke) and a tagliatelle with shrimps, salicornia, and cherry tomato. Now, you may wonder, what the heck is salicornia? So did I. Salicornia, also known as sea beans, samphire, or, my favourite, asparagus of the sea (!) is a salty, crunchy, succulent plant that grows in coastal areas and can be eaten raw or cooked, adding a unique salty, umami flavour to dishes. I think it’s a great alternative for vegans if the dish calls for anchovy, as it hits that exact spot. I am really happy to report that the other day I bought samphire from my guy at Sutton and Sons Fishmongers in Stokey and immediately had it with pasta and clams.

• Linguine Alle Vongole at La Galleria

Speaking of pasta with clams! It’s hands down one of my favourite pastas to order whenever it’s on the menu, but especially if it’s a warm, lazy summer day, and there is an ocean for me to stare at as I ponder away and sip a crisp white wine, eating the pasta clam after clam. Heaven. At La Galleria, I wasn’t staring at the ocean, but I had a really nice lunch there, and the linguine alle vongole was very good. The sardines pasta I mentioned earlier was also decent, according to a French guy who had just arrived in Palermo and was indulging in my fantasy of feeling like a local, because he was asking me where’s good to eat in Palermo and what he should see next. Whether lunch or dinner, you’ll have a great time there.

• Pasta alla Norma at Grano Granis

This was one of the pastas I really wanted to try in Sicily, as I often find myself cooking whenever I have an aubergine in the fridge. I tend to butcher it by swapping ricotta for parmesan, but the version I tried at Grano Granis was heavy on ricotta and, therefore, delicious. The restaurant was a rather unassuming local spot, reminding me of those places in multi-use developments that combine flats, shops, and gyms – a big thing in Warsaw. So, for my Polish readers (a.k.a. my parents and a couple of friends), it was very much giving Kabaty. It’s fine to give it a miss, but if you happen to be in the area, you’re guaranteed a good meal here.

• Crisps and pizza in bed, specifically San Carlo and pizza from Voglia Di Pizza

As I learned on this trip, a week in one place and in hotels doesn’t do it for me. So when it came to the point where I couldn’t stomach yet another restaurant and had a late lunch out, I ended up grabbing a takeaway pizza from Voglia Di Pizza. I ate it in my big hotel bed, watching SATC and drinking a bottle of beer, before dozing off to sleep. It was, in fact, perfect. Another reason why solo travel can be great – you get to decide what you want to do each day. No muss, no fuss.

• Arancini, Ke Palle

Honestly, I wasn’t that into them! I kind of overdosed on supplì in Rome, and was so stunned by them then that these did nothing for me. Don’t get me wrong, I like an arancini, but it’s not what I’m missing most from this trip. I’m missing seafood the most, and I’ve been eating at least one fish a week lately. Still, I can appreciate that the ones from this spot were good, and I liked its casual atmosphere. It very much seemed like a spot you go to after school to hang out with your friends. In fact, all the arancini-as? (Fran, if you’re reading, help me out here) had that sort of vibe.

• Panini from anywhere!

If in doubt or in a rush, always choose a panini. Preferably with local cheese and ham, and loads of pesto. One of the best ones I had was at the airport. A sentence that can’t be true anywhere else but Italy.

Desserts and drinks

• Cannolo at I Segreti del Chiostro

This was the first stop of my food tour, otherwise known as my holiday. Nestled behind quiet cloister walls in the heart of Palermo, I Segreti del Chiostro (“The secrets of the cloister”) is a project seeking to revive the ancient traditions of Sicilian convent baking, where sweets were once crafted in silence by the skilled hands of cloistered nuns. Inspired by centuries-old recipes passed down through generations, this pastry shop is a tribute to those hidden kitchens. What started as research into convent recipes quickly became a living project: a bakery that brings to light the forgotten flavours and stories of Sicily’s sacred sweet traditions.

Mesmerised by it all (I love a monastery), I had a cannolo the size of my head there. Safe to say it was the best cannolo I’ve ever tasted. I was also grateful that my mum left me some of her lactose intolerance tablets, as otherwise, this ricotta would have caused havoc for the rest of the day. This is not to discourage you, and don’t get me wrong, I love it, but I live a sort of reckless life when it comes to dairy products. Some of them are just harder to give up than others, ricotta being a prime example.

• Cassata Siciliana at The Sicilian Pantry

At the cooking workshop, we also made a dessert traditional to this region: cassata. As it consists of marzipan and sweet ricotta cream, it was way too sweet for me, but visually it was stunning and would be lovely to make for someone. We added a splash of green colouring, which made this tiny dessert even more pleasing to the eye. Why green, I’m not sure, but it sure as hell looked cute. A lot of cassatas and other sweets in pastry shops in Sicily were like this. I found myself taking photos of them more than ordering them, and being inspired by their colours. I’m really into pastel blue, butter yellow, and pistachio these days, and they are becoming more prominent in my wardrobe or on my nails. I even have a photo from Cefalù that proves it.

• Semifreddo alle Mandorle at Al Cancelletto

This was the spot where I was bemused by the green thing in my pasta. After the artichokes and pasta, I thought I didn’t have any space left for dessert. The waiter looked saddened by this fact but accepted defeat and went to grab my bill. Or so I thought. A few minutes later, he brought me an almond (mandorle) semifreddo on the house. What can I say, turns out I had space for it after all, and it was delicious. Semifreddo may actually be my new favourite summer dessert. I finished it all off with a glass of bitter-sweet Marsala.

• Gelato at Cappadonia Gelati

Before this trip, one of my friends begged me to “please eat more sweets this time around,” as when I was in Rome, I joked that I was injecting myself with carbs every two hours, and it wasn’t far from the truth. I really took his advice to heart, given Sicily is quite famous for its sweet treats. I ate a gelato everywhere I went, rotating between pistachio and lemon sorbet. My favourites were from Cappadonia Gelati, which was founded by “King of Gelato” Antonio Cappadonia in 1987 in his hometown Cerda. In June 2018, Cappadonia expanded to Palermo, opening two locations: one on Corso Vittorio Emanuele 401 and another in Piazzetta Bagnasco 29, bringing Cappadonia's renowned artisanal gelato to the Sicilian capital. Portions are massive, service is lovely, and I bet each flavour is unique and worth trying.

• Espresso at Bar del Corso

Bar del Corso in Palermo, a café located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, dates back to 1950. It’s often described as a hidden gem, and I agree, as it took me forever to find it on that street. When I finally did and asked for an espresso, only afterwards did I find out that it was cash only. Embarrassed for the mobile payments generation I subscribe to, I apologised and started leaving, but the owner kindly gave it to me for free. Bless him. The espresso was strong and sweet—just like you would have it in Italy. I was there around 3 pm before it started pouring with what felt like a summer rain. I needed a pick-me-up before my spa appointment and dinner (who is she?), and it served its purpose well.

A little hint on how to find it: It’s vis-à-vis Nni Franco U Vastiddaru, so you can have a spleen sandwich and wash it all off with an espresso afterwards. Sounds like hell to me, but knock yourself out.

• Natural wine, dal Barone

All three bars situated in this alley were awesome, but this was my favourite. Gorgeous orange wine, free (!) crisps, beautiful indoors and outdoors, just vibes all around. I joked that this bar would slap in North East London, as when I asked for a wine that has that kombucha kind of taste, the girl who was serving us instantly got the reference and brought me a good "funky” wine. My kind of place!

Bonus non-food recommendations

• Landmark worth your money and time

I’m not the type to tick off all the sights and landmarks when I travel. I prefer to discover a city on foot and try to immerse myself in everyday life. I also enjoy getting to know the places I visit through food and the culture surrounding it. That’s not to say I never visit museums or cathedrals, but I usually select up to three must-sees—any more than that and I’m drained. I decided to visit Palazzo dei Normanni, also known as the Royal Palace of Palermo, mainly because I wanted to see the mosaics at the Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel). Commissioned by King Roger II in 1132, the chapel is renowned for its stunning mosaics that blend Byzantine, Norman, and Fatimid artistic influences, reflecting the multicultural environment of 12th-century Sicily. I have to admit, the palace was stunning overall, and I really liked the Royal Gardens tucked behind it. Shame they’re not open to the public to enjoy as there isn’t all that much greenery in Palermo. Also, beware: the place charges you to use the toilet (cash only), even after you’ve already paid €15 for a ticket, which surely should include access to a public restroom… but alas.

• Nearby beaches and hike spots

As I alluded to at the start, Palermo has a pretty urbanised landscape. But in just forty minutes by bus, you can discover beautiful beaches and nature reserves. For beachy vibes, you wanna head to Mondello. And, of course, Cefalu, which is bit further (1 hour by train) but so worth a trip.

If you’re into hiking, or you’re just craving to feel at one with nature for a day like I was, you can take a short bus to the foothill of Mount Pellegrino—a hill facing east on the bay of Palermo, Sicily. Not gonna lie, this hill looks intimidating at first, but within minutes you’ll forget all about it because you’ll be too busy taking pictures of cacti (oh so many) and the breathtaking views of Palermo. I hadn’t experienced a high like this in a while, and I sincerely apologise to all my friends I sent multiple selfies to—“me and the hill,” “me climbing,” you get the idea. I was ecstatic.

Depending on how many breaks you take to snap those pics or just marvel at the views, the hike takes a little over an hour. It gets a bit windy at the top, so bring a light layer with you. You’ll need it when you reach your final destination—Santuario di Santa Rosalia, a sanctuary venerating the patron saint of Palermo. For centuries, it’s been a site of pilgrimage for both the faithful and the curious. It’s definitely worth a visit. Once you’ve had some time to recuperate, you can either take a bus back to the city centre (though there’s only one every hour) or descend the hill the old-fashioned way—on foot. If you choose that route, just know it’ll be a lot harder and less fun, because it’s quite steep and pebbly. But think of the satisfaction you’ll feel at the end!

Thanks for reading! Any other tips or reflections you have on Sicily let me know in the comments. Now, I’m off to enjoy my birthday Pavlova cake - until next time. xx